Old Centuripe Italiano...

di Alec Frey 

You go up from the plain and from the citrus orchard, stretched out with thick green, with yellow and orange sprays, in the sun and behind, far away, the sea. You climb fast, and the mountain with an isolated sharp tip, that before, from the bottom, seemed so remote and almost inaccessible, becomes a landscape, and then an extreme frame, of an inhabited framed, from the deep V of the other two hills.

But, before entering in Centuripe, look on your right, on the side of the street. You can easily recognize the bricks and the antique vaulted ovens, emerge from the buttress from the high ground that goes down up to asphalt. Because, here from time, have lived and have worked the masters of the ceramic art work, so antique that the Greeks represent only a certain period, and not the first.

From the town the view and the landscape are extraorindinary. From the extreme point - because the map of Centuripe is a star with five points - that watches towards south, there is, further the plain of Catania, the sea. At the east, al di la' of the broad valley of citrus orchard, Etna occupies a massive visual, near is cut a little above the base of the clear boundary of Adrano, whereas, at west, al di la', at the other end of the town that over looks a cliff, their houses. The theory of hills and mountains of internal Sicily, with it's infinite and immutable sensation.

Centuripe is, and remains, nevertheless, as well as a town that is sheltered high upon the valley and the sea, an inextinguishable mine of archaeological findings. For decades, from the friable land and the steep of her mountains have been digged valuables that belong to a simple past. In the heart of the city, under the roadbed, of a road bridge, was uncovered an important Roman building, still to be put into full light. It's enough to visit the antiquarian - because the museum, destinated to gather, how much luck permits, that the uncovered treasures remains at Centuripe. At the moment it's a new building, but not yet utilized - to realize, what type of variety of culture that they succede during the history in this territory.

So, when you go out into the narrow streets of the town, you'll see all in a different light, it will seem as if you are at a provisional stage, that covers most deep and infinite roots, of how much you never happened to think. The pleasant farmer museum serves to bring again in this land of Sicily, the Sicily of the mountains, of the hard work of life, hidden simple and Spartan, yesterday's Sicily and not of centuries ago. But the centuries return to make feel their presence, as soon as you come down to waterlily, well-disposed and patient, in love of the history, that are bringing again into light, astride of the river that comes down between the two peaks on which Centuripe leans on.

And this alternation you'll find it everywhere, wherever the past appears under or near an uncertain present, a present that loses all importance, just opposite of the immanence of the centuries in which this town was theater of an intense and rich life, a life in which art was daily, real. You might have a different feeling at Agrigento or at Paestum. There, history is the power, history faces you, it dominates you from the stately columns of the temples. Here, at Centuripe, you will realize that you are above history. It's an extremely interesting history, because it's so old, it varies and is mixed. If you happen to cross any of the paths that cut diagonally the mountains of Centuripe, looking from the bottom, the houses and the town, you will notice that every rock becomes a probable finding. You will start asking yourself, if that stone belongs to a Roman wall, if the pebble ahead didn't roll from a prehistoric installation. Then you can understand - eventhough you do not share - the frenzy that inclined hundreds of dilettante archaeologist to dig and dig. It was - and is - easy to find small and big teasures.

A ride to Centuripe, is like walking through the centuries, like walking - literally - upon the most antique history.


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