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The memories of that trip is still alive in my mind, who
knows for how long. For the unbearable heat that started at eight o'clock in the morning,
it made the road seem much farther and winding that brought to Castel di Lucio. It seemed
so close but yet so far. The road was interrupted right after Mistretta with a road sign from
the town of Castel di Lucio, it made us believe that the town was there, almost around the
corner. How many corners, but, there were other corners still to discover. My friend and I
while we were discovering the different corners in the mean time he was teaching me how to
use the camera . Between the opening of a diaphragm and another, right after one curve,
leaning on a hill of the Nebrodi, the first houses started to appear of the town: they
seemed as if they were uplifted from the rock and from the surrounding valley. At the
bottom. the fields of grain their yellow color with the dark soil and with the green of
the forest that covered the slopes from the surrounding mountain. Paint strokes from an
invisible artist. The hand of that artist would have accompanied us throughout our trip
painting with the red color of the geranium the balconies of the alleys that enter soon
after in the other streets, with the yellowbrown color from the antique stones the small
houses with the portals in stone, a local chiseled art work, with the light blue of the
sky the cordiality and the discretion of the Castelluccesi. The color that was desired was
dark just like a fresh coca cola. The discovery of Castel di Lucio was just starting. A
casket full of riches unsuspected was going to be opened. A skilful treasurer, in loved
with those gems but without being too jealous to conceal, he was our guide. His placid
story telling without a doubt gave form to the story even to the life of Castel di Lucio.
In the story telling our guide talked about stories that lingered from centuries ago and
daily life: The mystery. Not medieval ghosts; not antique legends that talked about proud
millennial or gold rings under custody in the cave of the forest. But an unknown
historical. In the eighteenth century father Salamone complained about documents that were
missing, of paper, of written testimonies of the story of Castelluccese.
Castel di Lucio: legend or history? Even the name of the
town at times is a mystery. In 1860 he had teached the Castelluccesi not only the passage from one monarchy to the other,
but also the transformation of the Castelluccio- the name in those days the town was
called-present Castel di Lucio. There's a base to this legend of this transformation: Was
it Lucio di Gangi the founder of this town?
A mystery for it's name. A mystery even for the arabics
that would have started to precede the Normans on these mountains. Our guide talked about
an arabic tower that existed before in the year one thousand, of sarcophagus that came
alive in the "grotta del saraceno". Around us there were only houses built on a
rock and few sarcophagus, means of testimony, only father Luigi Salvo brings this
desposition, in which at the end of the nineteenth century wrote about their findings. A
lot of this mystery made me want to walk through the narrow streets that went up to ruins
of the normans castle.
The first stop was at the mother church.
Father Nino greeted us. I expected to find an older priest, a trembling and busy priest
that was confessing old people. Instead I found a fifty year old priest ready to wander
through this personal computer and ready to involve us to visit his church. Better to say
churches. The actual building, in a matter of fact, it's a group of buildings from the
seventeenth-century architectural of three different churches: At the right there's an old
mother church dedicated to the birth of the virgin mary and the church of Santa Maria
dell'Idria, at the left a church for Saint Luca and Biagio. Today those churches form the
two laterale aisle, while the street at one time separated the three buildings and now the
central aisle of the mother church. Unbelievable but two archs and a niche are eternal
testimony of that history. The whole background altogether are "bodies of buildings
added in different ages", underlines don Nino. A bas-relief in marble from 1544 from
the school of Gagini, still from the sixteenth century Christ in column, from the
eighteenth century a wooden chorus. Different masterpieces of Nicolo' Campo testifies the
art work of the local craftsmen cabinetmakers of our time. A little building with carved
stone portals, there is an agricultural society that is guested At one time starting
probably from XVI century, this also was a church. A private chapel dedicated to San
Giuseppe. The contrast of the light from inside and out looking in you can see a painting
on a canvas one Sacred Family. It was worn out from the cigarette smoking, seemed as if it
was looking at the visitors inviting them to enter. We started to walk towards the castle.
While walking we talked about the miracles of San Biagio, the procession is the wonderful
water.
Without miracles and without noticing we reached the
antique center of the town, so-called "porta della terra", a small square three
narrow streets. The castle is near. Behind the last houses, almost hidden that at one time
it was suppose to be tower. The ruins reminded the glory of when Balduino the Guiscardo,
norman leader, thereafter the count. Ruggero d'Altavilla, obtained the earldom of Geraci
inwhich was part of the signoria of Castelluzzo. An unimaginable panorama: Underneath us
the town. Tusa's river, leaving to guess a leap of hundreds different meters, looking upon
the hill ahead, a little bit further, the sea. That little town, with few inhabitants, and
their doubtful history, their rich artistical property almost hidden amazed me again. A
modern structure ajoining to the castle recalled my attention: An old locality of the town
was fixed to be used for "monte frumentario" today it's remodelized, looks
forward to become the theatre Nino Martoglio" the Castel of Lucio. Antique, modern,
nature, art, and culture in one glance.
History and legend. Sacre and profane. What's it doing, for
example, a church dedicated to the Milanese S. Carlo Borromeo in the heart of the Nebrodi? Another mystery that drags on
for centuries. History and legend. Sacre and profane. Art. On top of the hill of
Salvatore, a few miles away from the town, Salvatore's Church, always the goal of the
pilgrimages of castelluccesi, an astonish look the "Labirinto di Arianna", an
art work of the grand museum in the opening of Fiumara d'Arte. My curiosity for that art
work, that was put out in the opened field the hill little by little growing bigger while
we reach it. Entering in the maze and getting out. The big door at the entrance. A natural
door in every entrance of life. Entering in this enormous "seno materno" to come
out again...such as coming to life again; giving birth in a new life, being reborn in a
new world.
A small town greeted us that hot morning day of June.
Leaning against a spur of the Nebrodi, the way we found it we are leaving it. There is
less than twenty kilometers that separates us from the beach of the Tyrrhenian, Castel di
Tusa. Castel di Lucio disappearing behind the curves, while slowly moving away. The
torrent was in front of us, the sea is another story to tell.
Emilio Barbera |